Young Ladies’ Costume Jacket
The accompanying illustrations and diagrams depicts two popular styles of Jackets for young ladies’ wear. Worn over a shirt or blouse, with a skirt to match, they indeed look smart, and provide a stylish costume for young ladies, at an age when the suitability of dress is a perplexed question. Figure 1 shows the Covert coat style, with fly front finish. It is semi-fitting in the back, with one sidepiece and vest at bottom of sideseam. the waist is
suppressed half an inch only at each seam, as the difference between the breast and waist measure at this age is slight.
Figure 2 shows the Sac back style of finish, with D.B. fronts, which is more suitable for tall and thin figures. The back is cut on the crease, with the sideseam and underarm arranged to define the waist of figure slightly at that part. A fair amount of spring is allowed over the hips, with the bottom of sideseam finished with a vent from 3 to 4 inches long. Diagram 1 is drawn to the 26 breast, 24 waist; and diagram 2 to the 28 breast, 23 waist. We will now proceed to the drafting of the former.
The Body Part
Draw line at right angle to O. O to 2 one-sixth of natural waist length. O to 6, the scye depth.
O to 12 ½, the natural waist length, then on to full length plus seams.
From these points draw lines at angles.
Mark in from 12½, ½ inch, and draw back seam from O to ½, continuing to full length at bottom, adding on spring according to the requirements of the figure.
O to 2, 1/3 of ½ neck, and curve up 5/8 of an inch.
Mark off width of back about 2 inches below shoulder slope plus seams, curve back scye, and draft shoulder seam.
From back seam on breast line to point 15 is half breast plus 2 inches.
Mark back from the latter station to 9½ at front of scye, the average between the across breast and across bust. The difference in these smaller sizes are slight, the average measure in this instance being 5½ inches.
Now sweep fron 9½ by the front shoulder measure, minus width of back neck, O to 2.
Add 3/4 of an inch, and sweep from point 15, and where the segments intersect each other, locate neck point S.
Now sweep by the over shoulder measure, less distance 6, C, and then form front shoulder, making the width ¼ inch less than at back. Shape the scye, hollowing it well at point 9½, and close up above station 4½, and 5 at back scye.
To form the gorge and fix the breast line, mark out from S to P 1/3 of half neck measure, marking down to E a like amount. Draw breast line from P through the quantity marked on breast line, down to length required.
Add on 2 inches for the fly front, adding seams beyond the amount for the turn of the lapels. For the
Placement of the Seams
mark back from 9½ at front of scye one inch, dividing the distance between this point and back seam. Make the width of back at waist from ½ to 4 one inch less than 6, 4½ on breast line. Now suppress the sideseam 3/4 of an inch, and make the sidepiece at waist ½ inch less than the width at breast.
Now suppress the underarm seam 3/4 of an inch, and draw sideseam of forepart, arranging the overlapping of sidebody at bottom as illustrated on the diagram.
To draft the sleeve.
Draw lines at right angles.
O to 4½ inches is the width of scye, from point O, 4½ on forepart.
O to 1, one inch.
Mark the sleeve pitches, the hindarm 1½ inches below shoulder point, and the forearm 3/4 of an inch above the level of the bottom of scye. Measure the width of upper part of scye between the two pitches which is 6½ inches, O to 3¼ half that amount. Now connect points 4½, 3¼, adding on 3/4 of an inch of round, and form sleeve head as shown. Now place the across back measure at top of hindarm, and measure off to length of elbow and cuffs plus seams.
In the absence of an elbow measure half the forearm at this point 1½ inches.
The width of elbow and cuff is a matter of taste, varying according to individual ideas in this respect. Having drawn the hindarm seam, measure round the under scye between the two pitches, making the underside of sleeve up to this measure. Next make a pivot from where the fulness is desired to spring from,, and sweep from top of hindarm seam, adding on at
top in proportion to width desired.
The mode of drafting the following diagram is the same in the general outline as the former style with the exception of the whole back and placement of seams. The back is got by marking out from construction line at waist one inch, drawing back line from O through this point. Make the width of back at waist 1/6 of the breast, marking down from the construction line at back ½ inch, for the spring at sideseam of back. Now supress the waist ½ inch, and draw sideseam of forepart, marking out 3 inches, and down ½ inch to secure
the spring over the hips. An inch fish may be taken out under arm, although this will necessarily depend upon the definition of the waist of figure, at the side. Allow 3 inches beyond the centre line to form the D.B. front, arranging the length of opening and style of lapel to taste.
Annexed will be found a scale of the sectional measures for the younger clientele, and which no doubt will be most useful to our readers for a reference, as well as a set of measurements for drafting.