Illustrations of British Costumes Autumn 1898

With the Autumn months well on their way, the tailors who cater for the ladies’ trade will be on the outlook for styles suitable for the coming winter; and as it is our special province to supply these, we have pleasure in calling attention to the novelties we have to offer this month.

As will be seen by a survey of the five Plates, we devote them to various styles of different classes of garments, so that we have on the Panel Plates illustrations of Costumes and Garments suited for present wear, whilst one of the two-figure Plates we devote to Jackets, and the other to Overgarments, for ere long the winter will be upon us, and warm Ulsters, &c., will be very much in demand.

The leading features of the novelties for the forthcoming season will be found in these Plates, so that they may be used with confidence as suggestions for other new designs.

THE JACKET PLATE

Illustrates two decided novelties. On the left hand we have the Raglan Jacket as worn by ladies; the special features of this is that the sleeve is carried right up to the neck, so that there is practically no shoulder to the forepart, and consequently the sleeve is of special design. In our illustration a seam is carried from the neck down to the cuff, but this is quite optional. The body part of this jacket is cut loose fitting, the back of the crease, and the fronts without the slightest suggestion of closeness. A fancy hood is worn at the back, and the collar and cuffs are of velvet. When made from Drab Venetian this is a very smart coat, and is likely to take on freely with those ladies who drive. the other jacket is a loose-fitting Sac, with fancy yoke on the forepart, loose sleeves close-fitting cuffs, and a Panteen collar. When made from a Drab Fancy Cheviot, with velvet collar and cuffs to match, this Costume has a very smart appearance.

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TWO-FIGURE ULSTER PLATE

The Double-Breasted loose-fitting Ulster has been popular now for some seasons, but it shows no signs of going out of fashion, varieties of it being ordered freely. Sometimes the neck is finished to button close up with a Stand or Panteen collar, at others the Reefer front is preferred; but these are minor details which are after all somewhat old. The right-hand figure on this Plate shows one of the latest novelties. the garment is made from a thin Cashmere and lined to the hips, and the shoulders are ornamented with Capes of novel design, and which are in keeping with the new Apron Skirt which has taken a pretty fair hold on public taste. The frill of the same material which is placed on the bottom of the two short capes, and the Panteen collar, are admirably suited to this material, and certainly produces a very pleasing effect both up-to-date and stylish.

On the left-hand figure we have a good example of the Caped Overgarment, the body of which is usually made up with very large armholes, and of course without sleeves. The back is finished with two box pleats, or if preferred an opening and two side pleats. Large patch pockets are placed on the forepart, and the fronts are made to fasten with a single row of buttons to the neck.

The cape is made to extend right round the bottom edge, being frilled in the same style as the apron skirt is finished.

This promises to be the popular style of trimming for the coming season, and will doubtless find openings in other parts of ladies’ garments than these illustrated.

The cape is generally made detachable, the body part being finished with a small Stand collar, which would be hid by the larger Panteen collar on the cape. The large check on the material is very suitable for this style of garment, which is generally intended for winter wear, or use when travelling, &c.

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THE FLUTED CAPE COSTUME

The new style of fluted cape may be regarded as the outcome of and complement to the frilled skirt. the illustrations shown here represents one of the neatest and best styles that can be recommended to any lady. These capes are made up on a foundation, which may be either in the half circle or three quarter circle style shown in another plate of diagrams. the flutes or fullness are formed by cutting the frills with a very hollow swing to edge, similar to the full circle capelet. These are then trimmed with a few rows of satin ribbon and seamed on to the foundation just in the same way as flounces are sewn  to skirts.

The Medici collar worn with this cape also has a flute at the centre of the back which is formed by a small pleat at the back, the interlining of the collar being of buckram a curling effect is produced. They are likely to become very popular, especially for the early autumn wear.

The skirt is cut in the apron style, the bottom part being seamed on along the outlined edge of the apron from which it hangs in full and graceful folds.

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FIGURE TWO

The costume represented here is an excellent style for morning wear the lady is evidently in the act of rehearsing an ode or even theatrical piece and we cannot imagine a more suitable style for such a purpose. There is nothing superfluous, but every detail is quite in harmony with the other. the bodice is quite plain in the body, but the neck is cut away so as to give the opportunity of filling up the front with a fancy material, as well as introducing the revers or epaulettes on the shoulders.

The sleeves are cut in close fitting style with the exception of the small puff at the top which helps to set out the epaulettes.

The skirt is cut to fit close in the front and define the outline of the figure, while the back is finished with inverted pleats. The front and sides as well as the forepart of the bodice are embroidered with silk flowering design, so as to relieve the hard outlines of the garment.

FIGURE THREE

This illustration conveys a very excellent idea of the back view of the fashionable Fluted cape. In this instance the cape is made up on a yolk foundation, while the lower part is frilled in the most approved method. The yolk fits the shoulders quite plain, the seam being utilised to give the necessary fullness below, while at the same time it is skilfully embroidered so as to conceal the join and show how the effect is produced. Almost all fashionable capes, whether made from fine materials or rough homespuns will have a frill along the bottom edge as well as down the front, while the high Medici collar will again be one of the characteristics of all kinds of capes.

The skirt illustration conveys a good idea of the present method of finishing the back. The material is not box pleated but is fan-pleated instead, the material being kilted inwards on each side. In some instances the top edges are kept quite close together for about four inches below the waist, at which point a strong tack keeps the top folds in position, while the others hang gracefully below. the same idea is applied to both plain skirts, and those of the frilled bottom order.


Our Full Size Pattern

LADIES’ JACKET. By Mr. A. Gentle. Breast, 34; Waist, 22.

The pattern given with this number is a reproduction of one by Mr. A. Gentle, who writes respecting it as follows:-

GENTLEMEN,- Enclosed you will find a Pattern of a Fashionable Ladies’ Jacket, which may be of some use to your readers of the Ladies’ Tailor.

The jacket is cut 34 breast, 22 waist, with rather loose front, and tight-fitting back. The square-fronted collar to be of white corded or watered silk, with an edging of tracing braid to match material mixed with silver or gold. its design is simple, eyes or crow’s toes; but it very neat and effective. white cuffs, braided same as collar.

Silver or steel buttons give the garment a smart and stylish finish.-Yours truly, A. GENTLE

 

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