The figure on the left is dressed in a neat costume, suitable either for town or seaside wear. The material represents a black or blue Twill Serge, designed in the most recent style. The jacket is cut on the same principle as an Eton, with a belt to keep it close to the waist at the back. It is customary to cut the back on the double edge, but the sidebody and underarm piece are just the same as an ordinary jacket. The main difference is in the forepart, where a dart has been taken out about 2½ or 3 inches from the front edge on the waist line. the top half of the dart has been sewn up, and the space below left open so that the belt can pass under. The jacket facing is carried through the forepart to the front edge of the dart; both edges are then turned in and basted into position previous to being bound with white or cream braid. Two rows of narrow braid are put round the collar, lapels, and cuff, as well as along the outline of the dart.
The skirt is cut in the new style, with an apron front and frilled bottom. The skirt is cut with a point at the front so as to harmonise with the points on the jacket, while the bottom is cut very full so as to give a wavy effect. This style of skirt admits of many pretty variations of design of which the illustration is one.
The second figure to the right is clothed in a tight-fitting robe, which seems to indicate a return of the Princess style. This design should be cut in the same method as an Ulster but with more fullness round the bottom than at the sides. In order to accomplish this the underarm seam should be carried through to the bottom, and left on. The fronts are cut with a heavy lapel (like a D.B. Ulster) rolling to the waist; it is then gradually rounded off so as to show a small section of the skirt at the bottom. The lapels, fronts, and round the skirts are trimmed with silk, or any other fancy material with harmonises with the colour of the Robe or Ulster. The shaped band does not cover a seam, but is simply put on so as to relieve the plainness of the garment at that part.
The figure in the open jacket and white vest gives a good interpretation of a style suitable either for summer or autumn. The jacket is cut with a comparatively narrow lapel, which rolls to the waist in an easy and graceful curl, the secret of which is the padding and manipulation of both collar and lapel. No dart has been taken out of the forepart, but an extra quantity has been suppressed at the underarm seam, and a little extra cut away in the front. The edges of the lapels, collar, and also the cuffs, are ornamented with flat braid, which should be put on skilfully and square at the corners.
The vest is cut in the No-Collar style, and has just a small opening so as to show the front of the shirt and the small silk knot. Washing materials are generally used, and the buttons are put through small eyelets and fastened by the shanks instead of being sewn on. the linings are all plain, no colours are admitted because of their liability to “run” when the vest is washed.
The skirt is rather novel in the design of trimming, velvet ribbon being introduced in a most effective fashion. The bows on the fronts and side seem to indicate a further return to the flounces and frills, which are now being made. The bows are made up in the size required, and then tacked on in the most appropriate positions.
The River Costume to the left is made of blue Serge, and trimmed with white tracing and military braid. The body part is cut so that it fastens down the centre of the back, and is practically a tight-fitting bodice cut to the waist line, and made up in the ordinary way. the trimmings are then arranged according to the design, in this instance both length and breadth have been considered, while the yolk shape gives a rounded appearance to the figure. the cuffs are also finished in imitation of the design usually followed for Naval Officers’ garments. The skirt has the same idea repeated across the front, and is a style that will generally be favoured during the coming season on the river or at the coast.
LADIES’ S.B. LONG CHESTERFIELD and D.B. ULSTER
The short Chesterfield having been in great demand during the last two months, it is but natural that designs should take advantage of its popularity and introduce one suitable for early autumn or holiday wear. The illustration shows a very neat style of this garment, made from a light Venetian or Covert Coating, and is a garment which lends itself to a great deal of manipulation at the hands of a tailor. The forepart is cut almost plain, the form being obtained by shrinking in the hollow of the waist and at the neck and shoulders. The Fly-Front is a characteristic of this style, the lapels are cut rather bold for a single-breast, and the collar is covered with a velvet of a darker colour than the body of the garment. The pockets are placed on the slant, and are usually about 5 inches long, with flaps 2 or 2¼ inches deep. The ticket pocket is generally 3½ long, and the flaps 1¾ deep; but these may be varied to suit individual taste. the back is finished in the usual method with an opening, pleats, and back tack, but tabs and buttons are put on to keep it closed when the wearer desires it so.
But a variation is made in some instances by the back seam being continued through to the bottom, and slits left at the sides which are finished with a fly and buttons to keep them closed. The edges are single-stitched, the same idea being repeated on the cuffs, while the fly should terminate about 8 in. below waist line.
The ladies D.B. Ulster garment completes the outfit of ladies who have determined to spend the autumn abroad, as it is a most convenient wrap for travelling, and has a smart and dressy appearance. The material is a Glen Lyon mixture, with an overcheck of dark twisted yarn, which is now very fashionable for garments of this order. The main points of making and manipulation are the same as the Chesterfield, but the back is cut rather fuller, and seamed right through instead of being finished with a slit or fly.
The width of the lapels is 3½ or 4 inches, and no darts are taken out of the forepart; but the hollow of the waist should be shrunk so as to give as much form as possible. The lowest button is generally put about 7 or 8 inches below the waist line, and below that a blind fly and small button keeps it closed in front.
LADIES’ RIDING JACKET
There is seldom any great revolution in the styles of jackets worn for Riding or Hunting, but from time to time variations are introduced which give a certain amount of character to the garment. The illustration on the Plate is one of the latest developments in Ladies’ Riding Jackets; it is cut on the same lines as a Newmarket jacket, with Frock lapels and buttons all the way down to the waist. It will be observed that there is a fair amount of fullness on the right side, this is necessary on account of the right leg going over the pommel of the saddle. The bottom edge of the skirt must be cut with more width so that the fronts will meet evenly. The garment should fit tight so as to define the waist, two darts are usually taken out of the forepart to fulfil this purpose.
The back is finished with pleat and tack just like a gent’s Morning coat, and the edges are double-stitched. It has always been a rule to cut the sleeves without any superfluous fullness at the sleeve-heads, three, or at the most four inches being considered sufficient.
The Habit skirt may be cut in the ordinary style, or in the Safety. The latter is now much worn, and is distinguished from the large round being made at the part where the knee rests on the horn of the saddle. The object is to prevent the possibility of the Train catching on the saddle in any accident, and thus causing the rider to be dragged. The part below the knee hole is not sewn, but instead has three or four elastic tabs fastened together with buttons, which give very little resistance if the rider should happen to be thrown when taking exercise or in the hunting field.