Deviations Required by Ladies

Long and Short Necks. By Frank Gentle.

Long Necks. Diagrams 1 and 2.

Shows the alteration required for the above. Raise the back from 1 to 2, and 3 to 4, and re-shape as dotted lines. For the forepart raise the neck point from 1 to 2, and shape the shoulders and gorge as represented by the dotted lines.

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Short Neck. Diagram 3 and 4.

Requires the reverse alteration to that of the Long Neck.

Shorten the back from 1 to 2, and lower the neck point from 1 to 2; shape the shoulders and gorge as indicated by the dotted lines.

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The Erect Figure. Diagrams 5 and 6.

This class of figure requires a shorter back, as from 1 to 2, and a longer front balance, and a more crooked cut as 1 and 2 on forepart; the dotted lines show the correct alteration to make. The shoulder point having been made more crooked, makes the neck larger, therefore a piece must be taken off the front as shown on diagram, so as to make the neck the original size.

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Stooping Figure. Diagram 7 and 8.

Requires a reverse alteration to that of the foregoing, viz., a longer back from 1 to 2, and a shorter front shoulder balance 1 and 2. The dotted lines show the necessary alteration.

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Full Breast.

Figures with prominent breasts require more taken out at the darts under the bosom, extra width must be allowed on the front as at A, and then taken out at the darts B and D; this will throw fullness over the breast. The dotted lines show the alteration.

Small Flat Breasts. Diagram 8.

Requires less taken out of the cuts under the breasts, but more taken out at C, to reduce the waist to the original size; alter as indicated by the dotted lines.

Full Back and Flat Breast. Diagrams 9 and 10.

Some figures are very full in the back and flat on the breast. The necessary deviations for this class of figure are clearly set forth by the dotted lines on diagram.

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Small Back and Full Breast. Diagrams 11 and 12.

This class of figure requires the reverse treatment to Diagrams 9 and 10, and are clearly indicated by dotted line.

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